Modern alpinists try to climb mountains by a route which will give them good
sport, and the more difficult it is, the more highly it is regarded. In the
pioneering days, however, this was not the case at all. The early climbers
were looking for the easiest way to the top, because the summit was the prize
they sought, especially if it and never been attained before. It is true that
during their explorations they often faced difficulties and dangers of the
most perilous nature, equipped in a manner with would make a modern climber
shudder at the thought, but they did not go out of their way to court such
excitement. They had a single aim, a solitary goal - the top!#
It is hard for us to realize nowadays how difficult it was for the pioneers.
Except for one or two places such as Zermatt and Chamonix, which had rapidly
become popular, Alpine village tended to be impoverished settlements cut off
from civilization by the high mountains. Such inns as there were generally
dirty and flea-ridden; the food simply local cheese accompanied by bread often
twelve months old, all washed down with coarse wine. Often a valley boasted no
inn at all, and climbers found shelter wherever they could - sometimes with
the local priest (who was usually as poor as his parishioners), sometimes with
shepherds or cheese-makers. Invariably the background was the same: dirt and
poverty, and very uncomfortable. For men accustomed to eating seven-course
dinners and sleeping between fine linen sheets at home, the change to the Alps
must have been very hard indeed.&